Walk into any tile showroom, and it’s easy to get overwhelmed. Walls of glossy samples, hundreds of colors, subtle texture differences, and prices that range from $2 to $50+ per square foot. It’s no wonder so many homeowners start to wonder, “Is there really that much difference between all these tiles?”
The truth is, yes — there is. And those differences can have a big impact on how your finished space looks, feels, and holds up over time. From durability and slip resistance to maintenance and cost, every tile tells a different story.
Choosing tile isn’t just about picking something pretty. It’s about matching the right material to the right space, understanding what makes one tile last for decades while another chips or discolors after a few years, and knowing where quality really counts.
This guide will walk you through the key things to know before you fall in love with a tile sample — from understanding ceramic vs. porcelain, to choosing the right finish and size, to knowing where (and where not) to buy your tile. We’ll even talk about whether you should purchase it yourself or have your contractor handle it for you.
At Rothrock Kitchen & Bath Remodeling, we help homeowners make confident decisions like these every day. We’ve seen what happens when tile is chosen well — and when it’s not. So, let’s dig in and make sure your tile not only looks amazing but performs beautifully for years to come.
Types of Tile: Ceramic, Porcelain, Natural Stone, and Beyond
Not all tile is created equal — and knowing the differences between materials is the first step toward finding the right fit for your kitchen or bathroom. Here’s how the most common types stack up:
Ceramic Tile
Ceramic tile is made from natural clay that’s fired at a lower temperature than porcelain. It’s slightly softer and more porous, which makes it easier to cut and install — and often a little more budget-friendly.
Where ceramic tile works best: Walls, backsplashes, and low-traffic areas.
What to watch for: Ceramic tile is not ideal for floors in high-moisture or heavy-use spaces, since it can chip more easily than porcelain and may absorb water if not properly glazed.
Porcelain Tile
Porcelain is a denser, more refined version of ceramic. It’s fired at higher temperatures, making it stronger, more durable, and almost completely non-porous. Because of that density, it’s a top choice for both floors and walls in bathrooms, kitchens, and entries — anywhere moisture and foot traffic are factors.
Where porcelain tile works best: Floors, showers, and anywhere durability and water resistance matter.
What to watch for: It’s harder to cut, so installation can be more labor-intensive (and costly) than ceramic.
Natural Stone
Marble, travertine, slate, and granite bring one-of-a-kind variation and natural beauty that manufactured tiles can only imitate. Every piece is unique, with its own veining and tone — which is part of the appeal.
Where natural stone works best: Accent walls, shower surrounds, and floors when properly sealed and maintained.
What to watch for: Natural stone requires regular sealing, can stain or etch, and needs more care than porcelain. Some types are also prone to variation, which can make them harder to match or replace later.
Glass Tile
Glass adds brilliant color and light reflection that’s perfect for backsplashes or accent niches. It’s non-porous and stain-resistant but also slick and prone to chipping if used on the floor.
Where glass tile works best: Shower niches, kitchen backsplashes, or as decorative inlays.
What to watch for: Glass tile can highlight uneven surfaces underneath, so precise installation is a must.
Other Specialty Tiles
Cement, metal, or handmade artisan tiles can create truly custom looks. They’re beautiful, but often require special installation techniques and maintenance.
If you’re drawn to something unique, just make sure to factor in the extra cost and care that come with it.
Floor Tile vs. Wall Tile: What’s the Difference?
At first glance, it might seem like tile is just tile. But, floors and walls have very different demands. Using the wrong type can lead to chipping, cracking, or uneven wear down the line.
Key differences to know:
- Thickness & Strength: Floor tile is typically thicker and stronger than wall tile because it has to handle foot traffic, furniture, and even dropped objects. Wall tile can be thinner since it doesn’t bear weight.
- PEI Ratings: The Porcelain Enamel Institute (PEI) rating measures a tile’s ability to withstand wear. Floor tiles usually have higher PEI ratings than wall tiles. Installing a wall tile on a busy floor can lead to premature wear.
- Slip Resistance: Floor tiles often come with textured or matte finishes to reduce slipping, especially in wet areas like bathrooms. Wall tiles, on the other hand, focus more on aesthetics than traction.
Quick tip: Even if a tile looks beautiful in a showroom, always check whether it’s rated for floors, walls, or both. Your contractor can help guide you toward tiles that meet both style and performance requirements.
Tile Grading, PEI Ratings & Durability
Not all tiles are created equal, even if they’re made of the same material. Tile grade and PEI rating tell you a lot about how it will perform in your home.
Tile Grading:
- Tiles are often graded 1–3 (or sometimes 1–5) based on quality and appearance.
- Grade 1: Perfect for walls. Usually lighter duty.
- Grade 2–3: Suitable for floors, with better durability and uniformity.
- Grading can also indicate how much variation or imperfection is acceptable. Handmade or natural stone tiles will often be lower grade in terms of uniformity — but that variation is part of the charm.
PEI Ratings (Porcelain Enamel Institute):
- PEI 1–2: Light residential traffic (bathroom walls).
- PEI 3: Moderate traffic (residential floors).
- PEI 4–5: Heavy traffic (commercial or high-use areas).
- Always check the PEI rating for floor tiles to ensure they can handle daily use.
Durability Considerations:
- Porcelain generally lasts longer than ceramic because it’s denser and harder.
- Natural stone can be durable but often needs more care (sealing, polishing).
- Cheaper tiles from big-box stores may have inconsistencies in thickness or finish, which can lead to cracking or uneven installation.
Tile Size, Flatness & Uniformity
Tile size isn’t just about aesthetics — it also affects installation, grout lines, and overall project cost. Choosing the right size can make a big difference in both the look and the ease of installation.
Popular sizes:
- Penny tiles & mosaics: Tiny tiles create intricate patterns, but require many cuts and more installation labor.
- Subway tiles (3×6, 4×12): Classic and versatile, with moderate installation effort.
- Large-format tiles (12×24, 24×48): Big tiles create a sleek, modern look, but they require a flatter installation surface.
Pro Tip: 12×24 tiles often hit the sweet spot — they’re large enough to reduce grout lines but still manageable to install without specialty tools. Larger tiles, like 24×48, require a flatter surface and specialized installation equipment, while smaller tiles need more cuts and a more detailed installation.
Flatness & Uniformity:
- Rectified vs. Unrectified: Rectified tiles are cut precisely, allowing for smaller grout lines and a cleaner, more modern look. Unrectified tiles have softer, slightly irregular edges — perfect if you love a handmade, natural style.
- Handmade vs. Factory-made: Handmade tiles offer charm and variation but can be trickier to install evenly. Factory-made tiles are highly uniform, which helps with large-format layouts and maintaining level surfaces.
Why it matters:
Even small variations in thickness, curvature, or edge shape can impact installation. This is one reason tile manufacturers and the TCNA recommend limiting large-format tile offsets to 1/3 maximum — full 1/2 brick patterns can highlight natural curvature and lead to uneven grout lines or lippage.
Understanding size, flatness, and uniformity up front helps you plan layouts wisely and sets the stage for a smooth, professional installation.
Layout, Pattern, and Installation Basics
How you lay your tile can completely change the feel of a room, and sometimes the cost of installation, too.
Tile Layouts:
Not all tile patterns are created equal. Simple layouts, like straight or diagonal, are quick and straightforward to install. More complex patterns, such as herringbone or chevron, require extra planning, precise cuts, and a bit more time.
Discussing the layout with your installer early ensures you can balance visual impact with installation time and cost, so your final result is both beautiful and practical.
Offset Patterns:
Many people love the classic “brick” or staggered look, but there’s a reason tile manufacturers and the TCNA (Tile Council of North America) caution against a full 1/2 offset for large-format tile. Tile is almost never perfectly flat — it has a slight “crown” or natural curvature. Using a 1/2 offset can make these variations more noticeable, leading to uneven grout lines or lippage.
For large-format tiles, a 1/3 offset is generally the maximum recommended to achieve a smooth, professional finish.
Substrate Prep & Best Practices:
Before laying a single tile, the surface needs to be flat and level — especially with large-format tiles. Even small bumps can create uneven edges or lippage. Professionals often use self-leveling underlayment, floor patch, and other prep techniques to ensure the tile installation is beautiful and durable.
Bottom Line:
From pattern choice to substrate prep, understanding the basics shows why professional installation matters. Proper planning and execution make the difference between a tile floor that looks amazing and one that causes headaches down the road.
Grout Joint Widths & Maintenance
Grout is more than just filler — it affects the overall look, ease of cleaning, and long-term durability of your tile installation.
What to know:
- Joint width matters: Tile size, edge type, and straightness all influence how wide your grout lines need to be. Smaller, rectified tiles can use very narrow joints for a sleek, modern look, while slightly irregular tiles or handmade varieties usually need a wider grout line to accommodate natural variation.
Grout types:
- Cementitious grout: The classic option, it’s readily available and easy to work with. Typically, it needs to be sealed to resist stains and moisture, though sealing requirements may vary depending on the product and manufacturer.
- Epoxy grout: Extremely durable, stain-resistant, and typically does not require sealing. Ideal for showers, kitchens, and high-traffic areas.
- High-performance grouts: Many modern grout formulations are designed to be stain-resistant and waterproof without any sealing, greatly simplifying maintenance.
Color choices: Matching grout to tile creates a seamless look, while contrasting grout can highlight the pattern or shape of your tiles.
Pro tip: Even with modern grouts that don’t require sealing, a little routine cleaning goes a long way to keep grout looking fresh for years. If you’re using traditional cementitious grout, sealing both the grout and sometimes the tile itself can still protect your investment and make cleaning easier.
Tile Finishes: Matte, Glossy, and Everything In Between
The finish you choose changes the look, feel, and even functionality of your tile. Here’s a quick guide to help you navigate the options:
- Matte: Soft, understated, and slip-resistant. Matte tiles are ideal for bathroom floors or areas where water may make surfaces slippery. They tend to hide fingerprints, smudges, and scratches well.
- Glossy: Smooth, shiny, and reflective — great for backsplashes or walls where you want a bright, polished look. Glossy finishes can show water spots or smudges more easily, so they’re often best above counters rather than on floors.
- Textured: Adds depth and dimension, and can improve traction in wet areas. The right texture can make a shower floor safer without sacrificing style.
- Honed & Polished: Common in natural stone, honed has a soft, matte finish, while polished is glossy and reflective. Both can change how light interacts with the space and affect maintenance.
Quick tip: Finish isn’t just about style — it affects slip resistance, how easy the surface is to clean, and how it shows wear over time.
Tile Trim & Edge Details
Finishing edges isn’t just about looks — it’s about making your tile installation feel complete and polished. Even the most beautiful tile can feel “unfinished” if edges are rough or awkward.
Key options:
- Bullnose tile: Tile with rounded edges that create a smooth transition, perfect for countertops, shower walls, or ledges.
- “Schluter” profiles: Metal or PVC edge trims that protect tile edges and give a crisp, modern finish.
- Mitered edges: Two tiles cut at an angle to meet neatly — often used in high-end or natural stone installations for a seamless appearance.
Why it matters: Edge details can affect both aesthetics and longevity. For example, exposed raw edges are more prone to chipping, while properly finished edges protect your investment and give your project a professional look.
Where You Buy Tile Matters
Not all tile is created equal, and where you buy it can make a big difference in quality, consistency, and your overall satisfaction.
Big box stores:
Tiles at big box retailers are often more affordable, but they can come with hidden challenges. Mixed lots are common, meaning your tiles may vary slightly in color, thickness, or size. Flatness and uniformity issues are also more likely, which can make installation trickier and affect the final look.
Specialty tile stores:
Contractor-focused tile supply stores — like Best Tile in Hampton or G&N Flooring by Design in Exeter — typically carry higher-quality tiles. They make sure your entire order comes from the same lot, reducing color or size variation and ensuring a smoother installation.
Pro tip: Ordering from the same lot is especially important for large-format tiles, mosaics, or any design where uniformity matters. For a deeper dive into why tile lots matter and how to manage them, check out our blog: How To Avoid Mismatched Building Materials in Your Remodel
Choosing the right retailer can save you time, prevent headaches during installation, and help your new tile look flawless for years to come.
Common Tile Myths (and the Truth Behind Them)
Tile is beautiful and durable, but homeowners often believe a few common myths. Let’s clear them up:
Myth #1: “Tile is waterproof.”
- Truth: Tile and grout are water-resistant, but not waterproof. Proper installation of a waterproof membrane behind the tile is essential in showers and wet areas.
Myth #2: “Tile is prone to cracking.”
- Truth: Cracks and other tile failures usually result from uneven substrates or structural movement — not the tile itself. A quality installation, with good surface preparation and the proper setting materials, will last decades.
Myth #3: “Buying tile yourself always saves money.”
- Truth: It can actually create challenges with lot consistency, lead times, and warranty coverage. Contractors often have access to higher-quality tiles and can ensure you get exactly what you need.
Myth #4: “All porcelain is the same.”
- Truth: Porcelain varies widely in quality. Sourcing from reputable suppliers ensures proper density, flatness, and durability.
At Rothrock: We help homeowners navigate these myths and make informed choices — so your tile looks and performs beautifully from day one.
Should You Buy Tile Yourself or Have Your Contractor Supply It?
It’s tempting to think, “If I buy the tile myself, I can save a few bucks,” but there are some hidden risks to consider.
Pros of homeowner-supplied tile:
- You have complete control over style, color, and pattern.
- Can shop around for sales or specific designs you love.
Cons and hidden challenges:
- Mixed lots: Even the same tile from a big-box store can arrive in different batches, causing noticeable color or size variations.
- Lead times and delivery: Tiles can be back-ordered or damaged in shipping, potentially delaying your project.
- Trim, setting materials, and compatibility: Your contractor may need to source additional pieces to make everything fit, adding extra trips and coordination.
- Warranty coverage: Many contractors’ warranties require that materials be sourced or approved through them to guarantee performance.
The middle ground: Having your contractor source tile doesn’t mean you lose control. You still choose the style, color, and finish — but you gain consistency, proper quantity, and expert handling. It’s a small trade-off for peace of mind and a smoother project.
For a deeper dive, check out the article: Should I Purchase The Materials for My Remodel or Have My Contractor Provide Them?
At Rothrock: How We Simplify Tile Selection
Tile decisions can feel overwhelming, but our goal is to make the process clear, enjoyable, and confidence-building. Here’s how we help:
- Samples and renderings: See how tiles will look in your actual space, with lighting and layout considerations.
- Expert guidance: We help balance aesthetics, durability, and maintenance — so your tile performs as beautifully as it looks.
- Coordinated sourcing: We work directly with trusted suppliers to ensure consistent color, lot matching, and quality, avoiding common pitfalls like mixed lots or damaged tiles.
- Installation planning: Every tile project is mapped out in advance, from substrate prep to edge trims, so your installation is smooth and professional.
Our promise: When you work with us, tile decisions become less stressful — and your remodel looks, feels, and performs exactly as you hoped.
Conclusion
Choosing tile is about more than picking a color — it’s about creating a space that looks beautiful, functions flawlessly, and lasts for years. From material type, size, and finish, to layout, grout, and sourcing, every decision matters.
If you’re planning a kitchen or bathroom remodel and want guidance on choosing tile that fits your lifestyle, aesthetic, and budget, we’re here to help.
Schedule a Free Discovery Call with Rothrock Kitchen & Bath Remodeling. We’ll answer your questions about materials, layout, costs, and the design process — so you can move forward confidently, knowing your tile (and your remodel) will stand the test of time.
FAQs
What are the main differences between tile materials like ceramic, porcelain, and natural stone?
Ceramic is more budget-friendly but softer and more porous, making it less ideal for floors and high-moisture areas. Porcelain is denser and more durable, while natural stone adds unique beauty but requires more maintenance.
Why does tile size, flatness, and installation matter for a successful remodel?
Larger or irregular tiles require a flatter surface and more precise installation or they may crack, chip, or look uneven. Size and edge uniformity affect grout line width, appearance, and how long the tile will last.
What should you consider about tile finishes and slip resistance?
Matte and textured finishes offer better traction and hide wear well in wet areas, while glossy finishes reflect light and look sleek but can be more slippery and show smudges. The finish you pick impacts both style and functionality.
Why does sourcing and tile lot matching matter?
Different lots of the same tile style can vary in color, thickness, or size, leading to mismatched or inconsistent installation. Buying from trusted suppliers or letting your contractor source it helps ensure uniformity and quality.
Is buying tile yourself always the best way to save money?
While shopping yourself gives control over style and cost, hidden issues like mixed lots, longer lead times, and compatibility problems can actually increase cost or delay the project. In many cases working with your contractor provides better outcomes and fewer surprises.